Riptide

The wind blew in my hair, and froze my nose, but that didn't stop me from going in the water. Yesterday we went to the main beach in Todos Santos. Supposedly it's good for surfing, but it sure wasn't while we were there. All of the waves were closing out, and it was super choppy. While the conditions sucked for surfing, they were great for buggy boarding. The waves were pretty big, so I was timid at first, and didn't go out too fat. But soon enough, two friends and I went out, to catch the real waves. At the top of the wave, right before the drop, it look perilous. It all happens so quickly though. Before you know it you are hitting the water below you, and then rushing forward, a part of the mass of foam. The longer we were in the water, the bigger the waves seemed to get. When we first got out there, the biggest waves we could catch were only about two or three heads tall. But by the end, the big waves were unrideable. It's funny, as I was telling a story about getting sucked out by a riptide, my friend and I did just that. After I was done telling the story about Bali, we looked around and realized how far out we were. We kicked and tried to catch a wave, but at the top, just before it broke, looking down was like looking off he edge of a cliff. Just before we realized we had been sucked out, the two boys went for one of the giant waves, and completely wiped out. One of the guys I was with actually did manage to catch a smaller wave in, but the other person and I were stuck. Being the idiots that we are, we kicked and swam and paddled, using up all our energy, against rip current. We laughed nervously, as our strokes got more and more panicked. The hardest part was being out past where all the waves break, we would kick and paddle, and think we were getting somewhere, but as soon as a big wave rolled in, we would have to stop, so as not to plummet over the rediculously steep drop. By he time we started moving again, we would be right back where we started. After what seemed like an eternity of swimming, therr was a lull, and we managed to get close enough to shore for me to stand. Pretty scary, pretty fun, but the best part is we survived and got a story out of it.

-Maya

(not an actual photo of the beach we were at, but Mama makes me attach a photo to all of my posts, and since I'm holding a buggy board a switch a guy then close enough)